The Painted Monasteries in Bucovina region
Among the most picturesque treasures of Romania are the Painted Monasteries in Bucovina region (northeastern Romania).
Their exterior and interior walls are decorated with elaborate 15th and 16th century frescoes
featuring portraits of saints and prophets, scenes from the life of Jesus, images of angels and demons,
and heaven and hell.
Deemed masterpieces of Byzantine art, these churches are one-of-a-kind architectural sites in Europe.
Far from being merely wall decorations, the murals represent complete cycles of religious events.
The purpose of the frescoes was to make the story of the Bible and the lives of the most important Orthodox saints
known to villagers by the use of images.
Their outstanding composition, elegant outline and harmonious colors blend perfectly with the surrounding landscape.
Whether interested in religion, history, art or architecture, visitors are intrigued by the construction and decor — exterior and interior — of these edifices.
The best-preserved are the monasteries in Humor, Moldovita, Patrauti, Probota, Suceava, Sucevita, and Voronet. Another, a small church, is located in the village of Arbore. Eight of the churches of northern Moldavia are UNESCO World Heritage sites.
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Arbore Monastery
Manastirea Arbore
Perhaps a tour of Bucovina's Painted Monasteries should begin here.
After all, the highlight of the small Arbore (Are' bo ray) church is a scene from Genesis, which adorns the western wall.
Monastery Arbore was founded in 1503 by boyar Luca Arbore, diplomat, statesman and advisor of Prince Stephen the Great (Stefan cel Mare),
arguably the best-known and most admired ruler of Moldova.
Because it was not founded by a prince, Arbore is the only church in the region with no belfry towers.
It was painted four decades later by Dragos Coman, one of the greatest, 16th century, mural painters of Romania.
Location: village Arbore, DN2K 732, - Suceava county
Nearby large towns: Suceava (24 miles southeast) and Gura Humorului (20 miles south)
Transportation: car, bus (from Gura Humorului or Radauti)
Nearest train stations: Darmanesti, Radauti
Telephone: (+4) 0740 154 213
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Humorului Monastery
Manastirea Humor
Founded in 1530, Humor (Hoo mor) is rather small physically, but looms large
among Bucovina's treasures with unique frescoes dating from 1535.
The one illustrating the Return of the Prodigal Son and one with a "humorous" depiction of the devil as a woman
is without a doubt the best-known of all.
The church, topped by a cross-shaped shingled roof, is without a steeple, indicating that it was commisioned by a court official rather than a prince.
The predominant hues of the frescoes are reddish brown with some rich blues and green infusions.
An unique collection of icons from the 16th century is displayed in the monastery.
Location:
village Mănăstirea Humorului, - Suceava county
Nearby large towns: Gura Humorului (4 miles south) and Suceava (25 miles east)
Transportation: car, bus (from Suceva), train
Nearest train stations: Gura Humorului
Telephone: (+4) 0744 827 316
E-mail
Admission fee: 5 lei ($1.25)
Camera/ Photo fee: 10 Lei ($2.25)
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Moldovița Monastery
Mănăstirea "Buna Vestire" Moldoviţa
Monastery of Moldovita (Mol do vee' tsa), located in the village of Vatra Moldovitei,
was commissioned by prince of Moldova, Petru Rares, in 1532. The predominantly gold and deep blue exterior murals were completed in 1537.
A large and vivid scene of the Siege of Constantinople is the highlight of Moldovița Monastery beautiful frescoes.
Another stunning representation depicts the Tree of Jesse,
representing Christ's genealogy, a wide-spread iconographical theme in Europe during the Middle Ages.
Location:
village Vatra Moldoviţei, Suceava county
Nearby large towns:
Suceava (45 miles east) and
Gura Humorului (20 miles south-east)
Transportation: car, train (from Suceava to Vama, 1 hour and 15 minutes,
and from Vama to Vatra Moldoviței, 35 min.)
Nearest train station: Vatra Moldoviței HC
Telephone: (+4) 0230 336 348
E-mail
Admission fee: 5 lei ($1.25)
Camera/ Photo fee: 10 Lei ($2.25)
Attractions near monastery Moldovița:
"Lucia Condrea" Painted Eggs Museum
Muzeul Ouălor "Lucia Condrea"
Address:
Strada Stadionului 87, Moldovița
Hours:
Mon. -- Sun.: 9 a.m. -- 6 p.m.
Admission: 5 lei adults / 2 lei children
Every summer, artist Lucia Condrea offers Easter Eggs Decorating workshops, at the museum.
Moldovita selected accommodations options:
ValePutna
Address:
Str. Pastravariei 135 A, Pojorâta
Location: 20 miles SW of monastery Moldovita
32 miles west of Gura Humorului and 55 miles w of Suceava
Telephone: (+4) 0761 143 680
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Patrauti Church
Built in 1487 and dedicated to the Holy Cross, Patrauti church is the oldest surviving religious site founded by prince Stephen the Great, ruler of Moldova. Mural paintings, dating from around 1550, can still be admired on the west façade. In 1775, soon after Bucovina was annexed to the Habsburg Empire, the monastery was turned into a parish church.Today, only the church and a wooden bell tower are still standing from the original monastic complex.
Location: DJ208V 214, village Pătrăuți
Nearby large town: Suceava (5 miles southeast)
Transportation: car, bus from Suceava
Nearest train stations: Darmanesti, Suceava
Telephone: (+4) 0740 057 712
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Probota Monastery
High walls surround Probota with corner towers for defense and a gate tower built in 1550.
Throughout its history, Probota Monastery has undergone several restorations and conservation campaigns.
More interventions were carried out in 1930 to replace some of the gothic tracery and repair the floor.
In the steeple above the ruler's residence, a small museum exhibits icons, furniture, old books, coins and several artifacts.
Only the church and the prince's residence remain today from the original ensemble founded by Petru Rares in 1530.
In 1532, the church featured both outside and inside frescoes. In the 19th century, a large part of the mural paintings were replaced.
Nearby large town: Suceava (31 miles northwest)
Transportation: car
Nearest train station: Dolhasca
Telephone: (+4) 0744 493 128
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Saint George's Church/Saint John the New Monastery
Biserica Sfantul Gheorghe si Manastirea Sfantul Ioan cel Nou
Commissioned in 1514 by prince Bogdan of Moldova the 3rd, and his son Stefanita Voda,
Saint George's Church was meant to serve as the Metropolitan Church of Moldavia.
This place or worship is now the seat of the Archbishop of Suceava and Radauti.
Saint George's Church houses the relics of Saint John the New, brought to Moldavia by prince Alexandru cel Bun, in 1415.
The relics are placed in a silver casket, richly decorated with scenes from the saint's life.
The outstanding exterior frescoes, illustrating scenes from the Old and New Testament,
were completed in 1534 during the reign of prince Petru Rares, a glorious time in the era of religious murals.
The style of St. George's frescoes resembles those at Moldovita and Humor.
Although only some parts of The Hymn of the Dead and the legend of the Prodigal Son
can still be seen on the southern wall, the church is nonetheless impressive, especially due to its mosaic roof and belfry tower.
Address:
Strada Ion Vodă Viteazul 2, Suceava
Nearest train station: Suceava
Telephone: (+4) 0747 592 095
Opening Hours: 8 a.m – 8 p.m
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Sucevita Monastery
High walls and buttressed defensive towers surround Sucevita monastic complex, giving it the appearance of a fortress.
Founded in 1581 by Gheorghe Movila, Bishop of Radauti, it was later expanded by his brother
Ieremia,the ruling prince of Moldova, who added massive ramparts and turrets.
An elegant steeple resting on a star-shaped base tops the church.
Massive eaves protect the outside frescoes, painted by local artists in 1602-1604.
It has the largest frescoes of all the monasteries in the area.
Sucevita boasts a magnificent depiction of the Ladder to Paradise.
Red-winged angels in orderly rows attend the righteous on a slanting ladder to the heavens,
each rung inscribed with one of the monastic virtues.
Sinners fall through the rungs and are driven by grinning devils to the chaos of hell.
On the south side, foliage entwines the rows of figures in the Tree of Jesse .
Following it is the Hymn to the Virgin.
Legend has it that work stopped after one of the painters fell from the scaffolding and died.
Sucevita was a princely residence as well as a fortified monastery. Today, the thick walls shelter a museum presenting an outstanding collection of historical and art objects. The tomb covers of Ieremia and Simion Movila – rich portraits embroidered in silver thread – ; together with ecclesiastical silverware, books and illuminated manuscripts, offer eloquent testimony to Sucevita's importance first as a manuscript workshop, then as a printing center.
Location:
DN17A 169 - village Sucevița
Nearby large towns: Suceava (35 miles southeast) and Gura Humorului (32 miles south)
Transportation: car, bus (from Radauti)
Nearest train stations: Radauti, Vatra Moldovitei HC
Telephone: (+4) 0230 417 110
E-mail
Opening Hours:
Monastery: 7 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Museum: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Mass / liturgical service:
7:30 a.m. – 9 a.m. (weekdays)
9:30 a.m. – noon (Saturday, Sunday and religious holidays)
Admission fee: 5 lei ($1.25) // Camera/ Photo fee: 10 Lei ($2.25)
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Voronet Monastery
Perhaps the most famous and stunning of the painted monasteries is Voronet (pronounced Vo ro nets), founded in 1487 by prince Stephen the Great to celebrate his victory at Valea Albă - in 1476 - over the Ottomans. Widely known throughout Europe as "the Sistine Chapel of the East" due to its interior and exterior wall paintings, Voronet features an abundance of frescoes featuring an intense shade of blue commonly known as 'Voronet Blue'. The composition of the paint continues to remain a mystery even now, more than 500 years after the church was built.
Voronet Monastery was founded by Stephen the Great, ruling prince of Moldavia, to fulfill a pledge to Daniil, a hermit who had encouraged him to chase the Turks from Wallachiia. After defeating the Turks, Stephen erected Voronet in less than four months.
Portraits of ancient Greek philosophers, such as Aristotle and Plato, are featured in the Tree of Jesus fresco.
Added in 1547, the frescoes of this church illustrate biblical scenes, prayers, episodes of sacred hymns and themes such as The Last Judgment and The Ladder of St. John, featuring colorful and detail-rich imagery of apostles, evangelists, philosophers, martyrs, angels and demons.
Monastic life at Voronet was interrupted in 1785 under Habsburg rule. It returned only in 1991 with the arrival of a community of nuns which strives to harmoniously combine a religious life of prayer with housekeeping and farm work. The nuns run a painting workshop and provide guided tours of the monastery for visitors.
Location: Strada Voronet 166, town Gura HumoruluiNearby large town: Gura Humorului (4 miles north) and Suceava (30 miles east)
Transportation: car, bus (from Gura Humorului), 3 ½-mile walk from Gura Humorului
Nearest train stations: Gura Humorului
Telephone: (+4) 0744 560 001
Opening Hours:
May – September: 8:30 a.m – 8 p.m.
October – April: 9 a.m – 5 p.m.
Admission fee: 5 lei ($1.25) // Camera/ Photo fee: 10 Lei ($2.25)
Attractions nearby monastery Voroneț:
Vama Painted Eggs Museum
Muzeul Oului Încondeiat - Vama
Address:
Str. Gării 20, Vama
Hours:
Mon. -- Sat.: 10 a.m. -- 4 p.m.
Sun.: 10 a.m. -- 2 p.m.
Admission: 10 lei (adults) / 5 lei (children)
(audio-guide is included in cost of the ticket)
Local artist Ms. Letiţia Orşivschi - founder and curator of the museum - displays her work
together with over 6,000 decorated eggs collected from 85 countries.
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Original Fresco-Making Tehniques
Scripture Alfresco
Smithsonian Magazine, June 2007
Excerpts of an article by Andrew Curry.
Mr. Curry is a Berlin-based journalist and former editor at the Smithsonian.
Creating the frescoes took a sure, quick hand. Teams of four or five painters would first even out the church's rough stone walls with a thick layer of mortar, then smooth on a thin, fine-grained layer of lime plaster mixed with natural fibers such as finely chopped straw. Once the last layer was applied, the artists had only a few hours to work before the plaster dried. Apprentice painters would apply background color and decorations, while faces and hands were reserved for master painters.
A portrait of the donor and his family presenting a miniature version of the church usually appears to the right of the door in the nave of the churches. These painted models are important historical records of the original appearance of the monument.
There are no chairs or pews in Orthodox churches, only occasional choir stalls in the nave.
Artists had to be chemists as well, mixing pigments from rare clays, semiprecious stones and common minerals. Azurite and malachite created vivid blues and greens. Ochre from clay was heated to produce reds, yellows and browns. As the plaster dried, it reacted with the mineral pigments, fixing the colors. The technique, which involved no organic materials unlike frescoes that use egg whites as binder, made the colors unusually durable.
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Painted Monasteries Essentials
Transportation
Easily accessible from both Suceava and Iasi (direct air and train connections with Bucharest),
the Painted Monasteries in Bucovina can be viewed in one frustratingly rushed day, but are better savored in two or three.
Suceava and Gura Humorului are the obvious gateway towns near the painted monasteries area.
The beautiful city of Iasi – the largest urban centre in eastern Romania –
is located 95 miles southeast of the painted monasteries in Bucovina.
Independent travelers who prefer not to rent a car or hire private transportation, can take a tour of the Painted Monasteries offered by local tour operators.
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Air transportation to the Painted MonasteriesNearest airports to the Painted Monasteries are located in
Suceava (SCV) - 35 miles east of Gura Humorului
and Iasi (IAS) - 98 miles southeast of Gura Humorului.
There are daily flights from Bucharest to Suceava and to Iasi (approximate travel time: 1 hour),
operated by Tarom, Romania's National airline.
European cities connected by plabe with Iasi or Suceava include: Barcelona, Berlin, Bologna, Brussels, Dormund, Dublin, Istanbul, Liverpool, London, Madrid, Memmingen, Milan, Munich, Paris, Rome, Torino, Vienna.
Reaching the Painted Monasteries by carThe easiest way to visit the Painted Monasteries is by car; a 30-minute drive (or less) separates one from another.
Car rental is available in Suceava and Iasi.
Excursions and day trips are also available from Suceava and Gura Humorului.
Major train stations, not far from the Painted Monasteries: Suceava and Gura Humorului
There are daily trains from/to Bucharest to Suceava (travel time: 5 hours and 45 minutes)
and to Gura Humorului (travel time: 6 hours and 30 minutes)
as well as from/ to other main cities in Romania.
From Suceva there are daily trains from/to Gura Humorului (travel time: 51 minutes), Putna (travel time: 2 ¾ hours) and Vatra Moldovitei – change at Vama (travel time: 2 ½ hours).
To check train schedules for domestic routes, please visit
RomaniaTourism Transportation Section.
Note: For departures from/to Bucharest, please select Bucuresti Nord.
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Accommodations
Towns of Gura Humorului and Suceava as well as villages , Putna, Sucevita, Vama and Voronet are good basees for exploring the Bucovina monasteries area. There are few large, chain hotels in Bucovina region but plenty of charming guesthouses (Pensiune).
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Visiting Hours
The painted monasteries in Bucovina are open
Monday through Sunday, from 9 a.m. until 6:30 p.m.
While inside the monastery, during the morning and afternoon mass,
please remain in place and refrain from taking pictures.
